My first day, again


I am here and for a change, it is chilly. Cold, crispy and windy. It feels like such a treat to be able to be cold! Every trip for the past year, and overall, most of my travels through the last three years have been in searing heat and blinding sun.

The plane was almost empty and delayed and now we are whizzing down the Delhi Highway in the dark. It does make it all much spookier. There are no street lights and the village houses are mostly lit with ghee candles making tiny orange glows of light in the distance. There is a lot of dust from the wind and so all the lights on the vehicles coming the wrong way up the dual carriageway towards us are huge hallations.

The contrast between the cities and anything outside is so marked. At the airport they were re spraying all the metal work around the windows to make it look new, rather than polishing it and everywhere was plastered with newspaper pages of pneumatic film stars smiling. The luggage hall was having a new ceiling put is, so barefooted men were welding without goggles, dangling from bamboo scaffolding without helmets and using metal cutting machines which were spraying iron filings all over the conveyor belt and us honkies waiting for our luggage. It is so refreshing. I do love the insanity of it all.

I watched a great film on the train, the Darjeeling Limited. It was such a slice of the Indian experience, and when Angelica Huston came on as a Nun it was a real delight to behold.

We are nearly in Jaipur now. It is dark, dusty and bumpy. Cows litter the sides of the road. They like to sleep there. I have no idea why. There are stories that Hindu bus drivers will commit suicide if they kill a Sacred Cow. Easily done in this minutely lit madness.